Despite my 7
years’ appreciation of Bulgarian wines, I’ve only once actually visited a
Bulgarian winery – and there are apparently 150 of
them in this small country according to the latest issue of the small gem which
is the Bulgarian wine bible - the Catalogue of
Bulgarian Wine (by T Tanovska and K
Iontcheva - annual).
I had almost
made it to the HQ of one of the Russe vineyards but last week offered an
opportunity since I was visiting Pazardzhik on the edge of some of the great
wineries around Plovdiv - which stretch up to Sliven and Stara Zagora…I
selected three – two in the famous wine village of Brestovitsa (site of my sole
effort so far) and one in a neighbouring village of Yustina. The selection was
done in consultation with my young wine merchant, Asen, who has a marvellous
little shop Vinoorenda at the Russian Monument.
To reach the
villages from the main Sofia highway, you take the signpost for Asenovograd at
the Plovdiv roundabout and turn right when Brestovitsa is signposted. We were
heading first for Villa Vinofera whose Muscat Bianco had caught my fancy – the
premises looked interesting but seemed lifeless…eventually a couple responded
to the bell but looked bewildered by our request for degustation and
purchases…..
The
atmosphere in the spa hotel of Todoroff – the village’s most famous winery –
was not much more welcoming and we decided to pass the opportunity they gave us
for wine tasting (at a price) – as well as what we felt would be an uninspiring
lunch. I left Bulgaria’s “village of wine” in some dudgeon……
And third
time was lucky as we rolled through the gates of Villa Yustina into a spacious
cobbled courtyard with two superbly crafted stone building complexes on two
sides. One was a beautifully-designed set of open offices – with guest, storage
and tasting facilities – and a friendly welcome.
A few
minutes later we were being shown with great pride the modern (wine) reception,
bottling and dispatching facility. It was my first glimpse of this process and,
as the owner branched out in 2006 from his main business of metal containers,
it’s clear that he sees this winery’s facilities as a shining marketing tool to
demonstrate the superiority of that produce range – let alone the wines
themselves……
Our guide
did the Bulgarian education system proud…..in her early 20s, Elena had the sort
of poise, enthusiasm and humour you need for such a job…Just completing her
education at Plovdiv’s Food Technology College, she makes a point of visiting
Bulgaria’s various wineries and therefore speaks with an obvious note of
confidence when she sings the praises of the Yustina wines – which I got to
taste in the coolness of a large, tastefully-designed (excuse the pun) room….I
left with a box of its white Cuvee (4 euros)
Apparently the winery also organises "food-matching" evenings.....obviously one stays over for those!!
Apparently the winery also organises "food-matching" evenings.....obviously one stays over for those!!
While
writing this post I came across this comment from the 2013 DiVino
wine tasting in Sofia -
Two stalls left the
greatest impression - Villa Yustina (established only in 2006 and located in a village in the Rhodopes
foothills near Plovdiv) by virtue of the enthusiastic and helpful approach of their sales guy Vencislav
Lyubenov. And the stall of the well known Katarzyna Estate (located on the Greek/Turkish border) -
by virtue of it being the only one whose staff (women) were encouraging feedback from
their customers.
So, full marks for consistency!
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