I sometimes
think that Newspeak has
taken over. For years, for example, the journals have been full of talk of
“innovation” and yet we live and breathe in ever more (globally) homogenised
societies where “innovation” is, as often as not, simply what we used to call
“product differentiation” – ie minute tinkering in design.
One of the reasons I am fond of Sofia is
that I am constantly coming across here the quiet assertion of real (as
distinct from pseudo) individuality and creativity…..Its art galleries and
bookshops have been described in these posts as “the
last sanctuaries of originality” – with the Astry Gallery as the leading
example. It’s not just the way interesting (young and old) Bulgarian artists
are cultivated and presented in her small gallery - it’s the friendly almost
family atmosphere.
And the
tastefully-designed bookmarks which mark every exhibition – real collectors’
items – are a simple gesture of that aesthetic commitment. They are produced by
a young couple who have also become a great help to me eg in the production of
my booklet on Bulgarian art (just about to go into a
second edition) and in setting up my new website. Danail in
particular has an exemplary “Can-Do” attitude as a result of which his little company
has won more custom not only from me but from at least one other foreigner who
found not only the quotes and deadlines unbeatable but the professionalism of
the work deeply impressive.
Let me give
some other examples - last Saturday, returning from the tribute to the Paris
dead at the nearby French Embassy, I stumbled across an incredible little pub (intriguingly
named “Sterling Club”) just round the
corner from my flat…It looks old but has in fact been operating for only three
years….my next visit (with friends) I hope to get the story…..
Last year I
was struck with two beautiful
and highly original books about aspects of Bulgarian history and culture by
two Bulgarians I now count as friends – Ivan Daraktchiev, with his
amazing Bulgaria: Terra
Europeansis Incognita; and Rumen Manov with his
700-page celebration of some 2000 cultural artefacts and photographs from his
own personal collection - in A
Fairy Tale about Bulgaria. Each was a labour of love – paid for by the
author….
And this Wednesday
I shall be at a winetasting in a small shop at the Russian Monument which I
have been cultivating almost since its start 4 years ago. Vinoorenda
is run by a young man, Asen, and his father and, to judge by the cards and
references at last weekend’s Annual Wine-tasting, has already built up an
impressive reputation amongst particularly the smaller, craft vineyards in the
country….
The blog has
previously noted the proliferation in central Sofia of tiny shops run by both
young and old……..a powerful expression of individuality which is repressed by
the large stores which are the feature of most downtowns in European cities.
Is this just
an accident of the narrow streets? ……I have a feeling it reflects something more
cultural. Bulgarians, for example, don’t seem to have adopted the debt
life-style of other nations……. They’re not taken in by fashions. They have a
respect for healthy foods and vegetables (and for their country’s history and
culture)…..
They are a
small, relatively isolated country, surrounded by indifferent if not
unfriendly neighbours – perhaps this has developed an awareness of being on
their own and needing to work at something about which they’re passionate?
Coincidentally
I’m reading one of Robert Greene’s recent books called Mastery.
Guardian readers, as you will see from
this review, turn their nose up at Greene but I confess I enjoy his books –
not least for their layout and charming tales of emperors and great men.
Mastery
is a celebration of the life of the “vocation” and the dedication which goes
with it….In these times of shallow showmanship and deceit, we desperately need
such celebrations…..Of course, those wanting a more serious read should go to
Howard Gardner’s Creating
Minds