Bulgaria is
famous for its red wines – I remember first coming across them in the Glasgow Oddbins
in the 1970s and, lo indeed, 40 out of the 50 best wines recommended in the Bulgaria’s
magic little annual “Divino
Guide” are red.
But it was their
white wines which were the great discovery for me when I first motored through
Bulgaria in 2002 on the way to Turkey. I was quite stunned by first the
crispness of the vastly underrated Targovishte Muscat (which rightly won a
bronze medal in a Paris fair a couple of years back) and then by the sheer
variety I was encountering.
Now my
palate (and body) reject red wines – apart from those from the Melnik
area and the Struma valley which crosses the border with Greece
But there
were still more than 100 varieties of white on offer at the 2015 tasting of
Bulgarian wines which took place a week ago at the Narodni Dom Kulturna (I
always confuse it with NKD – which my young Bulgarian friends tell me is proof
that I was a spy!).
That’s quite
a slog for one day – so it was very early to bed that evening. Sunday was for
the roses (the liquid variety) – fewer in number so I was able to emerge after a couple of hours with a clear
head and an even greater commitment to their whites…. I had missed last year’s tasting but had been
sober enough in 2013 to keep some notes of
how I marked the whites
To prepare
for the 2015 tasting I had pulled out and checked the scribbles on my copy of
the great little Catalogue of Bulgarian
Wine (by T Tanovska and K Iontcheva - annual) which I use to record my
impressions. The
Wine Routes of Bulgaria (Vina Zona 2014) is also a nice little – if less
technical – profile of 64 of the good Bulgaria vineyards. No fewer than 66 vineyards were presenting
on 20-22 November – which means about 400 bottles were waiting to be tasted!!
Six wineries battled it out for my palate’s favour
this year
Marvin’s Traminer (6 euros) is from a vineyard
in the Sliven area (in the centre of the country) - an area whose wines were the first to make an impression on me some years ago
Boi and AR Pomorie had a great Chardonnay and Viognier (6 euros). Pomorie at the Black Sea has some of the best white wines - but this particular
winery was new to me….
Domaine
Menada – had a winner (Sauvignon
Blanc and Chardonnay) for only 3.50 euros! A long established winery – near
Stara Zagora in the middle of the country
Edoardo Miroglio – (a Chardonnay
Barrique) – Sliven area again….
Villa
Yustina is in the foothills of the Rhodope mountains near Plovdiv and had a lovelyTraminer for 3 euros
Santa Maria at the moment is my favourite winery – in the
south of the country near the Greek border – and offers two white wines
(Sauvignon Blanc; and a Chardonnay - 4 euros) which won great applause at my own home
wine tasting earlier in the month
Seven jostled closely behind -
Chateau
Bourgozone - a favourite of mine on the western part of the Danube stretch – actually had 2 wines which caught my fancy – a Sauvigon Blanc; and a Chardonnay
Barrique.
Levent –
also on the Danube – had a wonderful Traminer/Miskat from the Russe wine house
Eolis - from the
southern borderregion - had a lovely Gewurztraminer
Alexandra Estate
– Vermentino (Sakar Region). a new grape for me
Four Friends
vineyard is in the central region, near Stara Zagora and had a great Sauvignon
Blanc (6 euros)
Neragora is a new organic
vineyard in the Plovdiv area (receiving Italian help). Their Chardonnay and
Misket was very acceptable
Todoroff – two of their wines pleased
me - Rainbow
Green (Muscat and Aligote); and Rainbow Silver (Cuve – SB and Chardonnay
with some Viognier). Todoroff are in the amazing village of Brestovitsa (boasting 7 vineyards) very near
Plovdiv
And,
finally, four which didn’t score quite so high but which deserve a mention -
Levent – Riesling (5 euros)
Zelanos – Pino Gris (7 euros)
Saedinenie
– Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier
Villa
Yambol – Chardonnay (2.5 euros!)
Favourite
Vineyards in south-east - Bratanov; Milidare; Medi
Valley; Katarzyna;
Favourite
Vineyards in south - Strymon; Villa Melnik
Favourite
Vineyards at Black Sea Black Sea Gold; Ethno
– in a village near Burgas on the Black Sea near the border with Turkey; and Slavyansti
- ditto
Central - Targovishte winery; Starosel; Vinprom
Yambol
The things I do for science!!!